I pay 15c an hour for heating - they pay two dollars - See Pinned Comment.

That is a NICE and WARM looking picture....

The bog stock lights use 2 x 150W incandescant lights, the manual says you can use replacements up too 2 x 175W.

So running the 150W lights in series, that is like a radiant heater putting out 150W - fuck all really - but it's NICE and warm - because of the fanned glowing ember type light frequency - it's highly directional and it's at very close range.

Mounted a foot or so above your head, from your bed head, it's brilliant when it's near zero*C in the room....

The Experience:

1. This only works on the now apparently obselete incandescent flood lights.

2. The light control gear in the security flood light - is good if your moving around in front of it, but if your using it as a head and shoulders warmer - over the bed, the timing and sensitivity circuits - make it a pain the arse...

3. You have to be mindful of the light placement - to protect it from being knocked and pushed or run into - or otherwise broken.

4. If this was on a desk, I'd make proper fixed mounts... If it was somewhere else, I'd make proper mounts and appropriate screening to allow ventilation and to prevent contact and damage with the lights.

5. You are also dealing with live electrical aparatus that was designed to run very hot, very bright, and to be placed up high, out of the way - where people ordinarily would not be in contact with it.

Having modified it to go from super bright and dazzling "area lights", to a cozy warm yellow - a highly focussed local personal heater, entails electrical work, knowledge of electrical work, components, and issues of the safety of self and others, being electical and fire etc.,

Well as there are actually people who are SO fucking stupid, that they will put flammable things, over heaters, which causes the materials to get hot, catch fire, burn the house down and then try to allocate the blame for them being stupid nasty cunts because you didn't tell them not too.....

My advice is ANYTHING I do, I take full responsibility for.

Anything you do, whether you have or don't have qualifications and or experience, are smart or are fucking stupid, fail to think, apply foresight, are incompetent and what ever you do, leads to you or other people being electrocuted or burning your house down etc., remember you chose to do it.

If your an idiot who has no idea what your doing, then don't do it.

If you do want to do this project, and have little idea on how to do it, ask competent people for help.

Footnote:

There is also the variations of using light dimmer circuits (leading or Universal) for resistive loads... these are simple enough...

As an after thought... on the basis of my own personal circumstances, crowded work space etc., and the need for both GOOD lighting, and some work space warmth, I will go with a double flood light, being run through a leading edge (resistive load) light dimmer switch, so I can have it a bit brighter and warm.


Afterthought....

I have wired the two lamps in series, eliminating the timer (etc) from the circuit so I can use the lamps in series as a 150W head and shoulders warmer - over the bed head to keep me warm all night long.... It's been around zero-ish *C of late...

On an alternate unit, I need HEAT and BRIGHT LIGHT, over my desk, so I have a stock wired configuration of two lamps in parallel, and set the timer to say 3 to 5 minutes of no physical momement - before they switch off.... AND I can dim it with a dimmer switch.... 300W is within the capacity of common 400W leading edge dimmers

This is a workable situation.