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I think with vertical log walls, stockade style, would require support from ground up so either continuous concrete footer or mud sill of sorts.. 2" flat cement pavers would suffice imo. a single or double horizontal log over the sill.. A horizontal style may work on pillars or posts or concrete blocks.. . I have built woods shacks on pressure treated posts 18" into the dirt.. that simple.. TAR the subterranean part.. What you need is freedom to do what you want.. then do it.. I have seen stilt houses on beach built on 12" wood pilings.. 1st floor garage 2 stories above.. You could build a regular house on 6x6 or 8x8 posts no sweat.,. set the posts in the ground run your joist band around flush wih outside edge. metal strap it or notch let ins and bolt.. You could raise the house up a bit or have it right on ground.. Where I live there is an extensive regulatory system on construction.<- imo another way they prevent outright home ownership of our generation.. keep us renting or in debt.. I've built some hunting camp wood shacks that were bullet proof.. 140mph hurricane did not budge.. hell yea having your own sawmill is cool if you have trees.. you can make t&g flooring or even interior siding.. Board and batten exterior is old American tradition.. can actually plywood and add battens spaced over it.. I have done it the old way. put boards up spaced apart and then cover the spaces overlapping the inside boards..
I was watching the Resident Evil movies and there was a rustic all wood cabin and with wood floors.. Bevel siding on the outside I think.. You could take 1" x 8" boards you made and planed run through a saw on a cant to create 2 pieces.. one side smooth the other one sawn.. trim and bevel siding looks great.. you could probly just frame, metal diagonal brace , weather wrap and side without plywood sheeting on walls.. insulate it.. in fact if you can mill your opwn framing you can go with any size like 4.5" 2x's. vs 3.5..
So using your own trees to build a cabin... You could go with framing timbers or log cabin.. I would fell the trees, use a tractor w/forks or small construction forklift to move the trees, use a rented gas powered sawmill with carriage and hydraulic feed.. and just rip cut all of them to your list.. in just a couple days, week, you are ready to begin.. imo https://timberking.com/product/timberking-1620/
not sure about drying the timber on a project like this.. In most places, wood will air-dry to around 12% MC. This is a big improvement over green lumber, but it will shrink another 2% or so in width and thickness when it is brought indoors where the average humidity will bring the MC down to 8%.Apr 10, 2015
When first milled, over half the weight of a board is water. As wood dries, the cells shrink roughly 10% in diameter, but only about 0.1% in length. This varies somewhat by species–and even in the same board, depending on its location in the tree (see Figure 1). This means that a 1"× 8"× 8' board fresh from the mill, will shrink to roughly 7⁄8" × 71⁄4" × 8' long as it dries. Even the most carefully fitted joint can open up,
Air-drying lumber is an inexpensive and easy way to get the wood down to a usable moisture content (MC) for most projects. The downside: you have to wait a year or longer.
so size and debark your timbers.. stack and wait a year.. to stack for air drying you leave spaces between the timbers
@jimbennett: I have a friend that has is own sawmill and I can trade timber for already dried cut lumber. I already discussed with him and he is happy to do it. I still want my own mill to continue working on projects in the future.
Sing log home is the best way you can do it yourself just have the sub flooring 3/4 marine grade worked with an engineer who designed these have outside fir inside cedar
I'm not familiar with that one so, I will do some research. Thank you.
rvmgtow keeps deleting and posting there is another man on here i cannot find lost my computer some good content on here for sure
yea, the RV thing was cool..
The property sounds great.. is equivalent to 660' x 660'.. 26' span at 12/12 pitch is a 13' rise in the middle and 17' rafter length.. .. that would be quite expansive.. I know someone from Maine here in Florida he built a little A-frame.. 14 x 20 I think.. was so small he put the shower outside in a stall.. under the moonlight.. it has a loft bedroom with ladder,. too small. 18 x ~26 would be adequate imo.. kitchen and bath under loft.. You could go with taller walls and let in a floorband at 7'.. set the rafters on the wall 3' above the loft floor and go with a 10 pitch... kitchen/bath ceiling at 7'.. walls at 11' side wall clrnce 11' house. 3' loft.. center clrnce 18.5' house 10.5' loft.. build closets against the loft sidewalls.. heheh. just throwin around some ideas.. Entry into living room, back kitchen door.. tools https://www.grizzly.com/?gclid....=CjwKCAjw8MD7BRArEiw
So with something like this,, you could make the building 18 x 36 the loft would be 18 - 2' each side for closets.. of course they would be short storage closets.. get a free standing wardrobe for clothes.. so 18 x 36 house. loft open space 14 x 20.. you want a master bath right over the house bath below.. you can make a kitchen bar facing the living room ~under the loft, eat on either side... room for a bedroom also under the loft. .so 2 bedrooms? or DEN? ..
I'm excited for you taogyow
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